Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Final Words

With all the rankings complete, all that's left is to post some closing thoughts.

During the month of July we stood at the highest point east of the Mississippi and swam in the waters off Key West.  We saw the USS Alabama in Mobile and tried our luck in Atlantic City.  We saw wild alligators and dolphins, went underground into huge caverns, explored an old gem mine, saw Civil War battlefields, walked the streets of the oldest cities on the continent, and crossed many huge bodies of water by boat, ferry, tunnel, and bridge.

This was my third "vacation of a lifetime" along with a month long adventure in Europe and a month long trip around the world.  I may not get a 4th one, so I'm glad we made the most of it.  Even our worst day was fun, which is a real testament to how many amazing sights there are in this country (although good company always helps too!) :)

I start work in September, so I am grateful for the time I was given.  I doubt I'll have another month off until retirement, so it was time well spent.  I'm glad we made the choice to explore this country even though it always sounds more exotic to go abroad.  It's tough to compare trips, but I can say that this one held its own against my solo backpacking trips which really says something.

We now have a list of places to return to, which was always an objective for this trip.  We still have a list of new places we need to see, so perhaps we can work off a few destinations over the coming years.

This trip was educational in many ways.  I enjoyed learning all of the history in our stops.  It was as varied as the history of settling the Everglades to shipping in Wilmington to the space program in Florida.  The trip was also an interesting study in American culture.  Regional differences still persist, although much of the difference appears to be a derivative of wealth rather than different ways of life.  The south is still slower paced and friendlier overall, but it's tough to see it in Atlanta or Miami.  Only the smaller southern towns retain that charm and I'm not sure for how long.

Erin found a number of cities potentially interesting places to live.  I'm not ready to leave my New York paradise, but it was fun to see so many options.  I'm sure if we ever decide to relocate, this trip will help us narrow the options.

A few random thoughts in closing.

1. Cell phone service is not universal in this country.  Check out an AT&T or Verizon map.  We spent many days without service.
2. Wifi is not universal in this country.  Hotels and coffee shops don't always have connectivity.
3. It's nice to disconnect.  It's hard, but you find yourself paying attention to everything around you.  (Even if you do miss major news events.)
4. Most beaches are exactly the same.  Go to a close one unless you're going to the Caribbean.
5. Driving in Orlando rivals any other city for frustration.
6. Every major city and many minor ones have a Martin Luther King Jr street.  It's probably 2nd only to Main Street.
7. It's really hot during the summer.  I wasn't ready for 100 degree heat with high oceanic humidity.
8. Public transit outside NYC (and perhaps Chicago, DC, and Boston) is barely usable.
9. Gas prices vary wildly.  In SC, we found it for $3.12/gallon.  We saw $4.09/gallon in Florida.
10. Palm trees apparently grow all the way up the coast, although we think any north of Maryland were artificially planted.

Finally, I hope everyone gets the chance to do this someday.  It always seems impossible to schedule anything extensive like this, but you really do get a different experience over a longer period of time than you do in a weekend.  I realize I was able to do this on a shoestring budget by cashing in hotel points and using rental car discounts.  Not everyone gets access to those perks.  Still, you can make it happen.  Sell your house, buy an RV, and that covers both categories at once!  But seriously, I always encourage everyone to pursue their dreams while their health is still in tact.  You typically regret the things you don't do way more than the things you do.

After more than two years of writing blog entries, I am taking a hiatus.  If you liked this adventure and haven't already read adamrtw.blogspot.com or adaminnyc.blogspot.com, you might find them entertaining.

I hope you enjoyed following along as much as we enjoyed the real thing!

City Rankings

I am going to try a very difficult exercise here.  It's impossible to truly rank cities since each one has its strengths and weaknesses.  It's tough to compare Savannah and Atlantic City because one is historical and might be a good place to live while the other is glitzy and a better weekend getaway.

I decided the fairest way to rank them is based on whether or not we would ever want to return based on what we experienced on the trip.  That includes food, activities, traffic, people encountered, mood, and other subjective factors.  It also includes the surrounding area that you might travel in.  I am sure that will distort the rankings since there's no way we can see a city like Miami in a few hours.  Still, you can get a "vibe" from a city quickly.  We may have seen some of these places on a bad day or visited the wrong things.  So, with that in mind, here is the list of cities we could most like to return to based on what we experienced.

This list only includes cities where we actually did something.  For example, although we stayed in Florida City, we have no way to evaluate it because we drove to the hotel and left in the morning.  Same with a few other stops where I don't feel like we have enough to evaluate.

Would return
6. Wilmington, NC (Really enjoyed the historic downtown)
7. Ocracoke, NC (fun little town with a happy vibe)
8. Charlotte, NC (great livable city)
9. Orlando, FL (solely for Universal Studios although we didn't see Disney/Epcot)
10. Mobile, AL (we may have hit most of the sites, but they are worth another look)
11. Naples, FL (this ultra-rich city was a surprise and pleasant)
12. Harper's Ferry, WV (we ran out of time here, but it looked worth exploring further)
13. Floyd, VA (mostly for the Jamboree, but also to see a nice small town)
14. Jupiter, FL (Erin's favorite beach in the continental United States)
15. Miami, FL (it rained during our visit, but we saw potential)
16. Dutch Country (the festival showed us that we could spend a future weekend seeing the Amish)

Would not return
17. St. Augustine, FL (enjoyed the tour, but we've seen it now)
18. Key West, FL (huge disappointment, but still a fun visit.  Wouldn't go all the way back down.)
19. Norfolk/Virginia Beach, VA (Virginia Beach wasn't much and Norfolk is entirely Naval-based.)
20. Myrtle Beach, SC (great regional destination, but too many better options nationally)
21. Atlanta, GA (I go to Atlanta a lot and it never gets better.  Too many thugs.)
22. Clearwater, FL (nice for visiting Grandma, but there are better beach towns)
23. Gatlinburg, TN (fun for children, but overly touristy)
24. Everglades City, FL (had a great time, but it's sort of a one-trick town)
25. Marco Island, FL (okay beach destination)
26. Charlottesville, VA (college town, that's about all)
27. Frederick, MD (great history nearby, but we've seen it now)
28. Gainesville, FL (college town, that's mostly all)
29. Tallahassee, FL (interesting capitol, but that's about all)
30. Roanoke, VA (maybe we missed it, but didn't seem to be anything here)
31. Athens, GA (college town, that's all)
32. Auburn, AL (college town, that's all)
33. Daytona Beach, FL (trashy!)
34. Hilton Head, SC (generic family beach destination)
35. Roanoke Island, NC (waste of our time)
36. Allentown, PA (sad place in need of redevelopment, no excitement)
37. Salisbury, MD (one of two cities where we felt unsafe, no breakfast options)
38. Montgomery, AL (felt very unsafe in much of the city, disappointing attractions, problems all around)

Intend to return
5. Asheville, NC

Asheville is the only city that made our top five from the early portion of the trip.  It had a nice blend of scenery, historic buildings, and counterculture that made it a fun visit.  The food was good and the historic walking tour was interesting.  Asheville just seemed like the most livable city in the Appalachians that we visited.  It was sort of like Austin in the mountains.

4. Charleston, SC

Charleston has the best preserved downtown of any in the south.  The houses are stunning and the city is spectacularly clean.  It has substantial history, nice parks, and great food.  It's a gem of a city and one we'd like to return to and see more of.

3. Ocean City, MD

Ocean City has the best boardwalk in the United States.  It doesn't have huge hotels or casinos, but the boardwalk is still packed and for good reason.  Even a few blocks off the boardwalk, the restaurants, shops, and hotels make the area interesting.  The sand sculptures, beach, and amusement parks make this a family paradise for all ages.  Until Ocean City, I had never seen a real American boardwalk.  Coney Island has dwindled and Venice Beach (and all others) don't have the length or width of attractions.

2. Savannah, GA

Savannah immediately became our top city when we visited.  Yesterday in the car we both agreed it was the best.  The historic district in Savannah is a paradise.  The parks, shops, river, and overall feel are majestic.  We started looking at real estate prices here to see how much it would cost to move.  The theater show was fun and I'm sure the horse drawn carriages are too.  Savannah was somewhat of a surprise to us which made it even better.  We'd love to go back and explore more of the core that we missed.  Of course, I'd love to go back solely for Mrs. Wilkes!

1. Atlantic City, NJ

Here's the big shocker.  Atlantic City was an afterthought for us.  It just happened to be in the right place between Ocean City and home.  I've only heard horrible things about Atlantic City.  When we started driving through, it was looking pretty scary.  We saw all sorts of scary people and awful buildings.  In the end, none of that mattered.

Atlantic City is like Las Vegas, but it's close to home.  The Borgata is Vegas-quality and so are Caesar's, the Tropicana, and perhaps others we didn't visit.  There's no questions the gambling is good.  However, Atlantic City also has a boardwalk.  It's not as good as Ocean City, but it's second best and the casinos anchor it.  The combination of Vegas and the beach is incredible.  Plus you have the lightshow and all the entertainment that the casinos offer.  On top of that, there is a Tanger Outlet center right by the major hotels.  Atlantic City upgrades the Vegas Strip with a boardwalk!

Sure, the city has problems but not ones you would encounter.  The boardwalk is safe at any time and there's no reason to be walking through the public housing far from the hotels at midnight.  We found safety concerns completely overblown.

I'm not saying Atlantic City is the best place to live or the best gambling destination in the US, but it is a great place to vacation.  The food, indoor entertainment, boardwalk, beach, and interesting people combined to make the last day and night of our trip the most fun of all.  It was completely unexpected.  I'm already thinking of when would be a good time to take the train back down!

Meal, Hotel, and Activity Rankings

Adam's Favorite Meals
1. Mrs. Wilke's Boarding House - Savannah, GA
2. Mert's Heart and Soul - Charlotte, NC
3. Little Moir's Food Shack - Jupiter, FL

Two great southern meals.  Mert's has always been one of my favorite restaurants, but Mrs. Wilke's was unexpectedly the best meal I ate this trip.  I'd love to go back when I get the chance even if I have to wait in that crazy line.  Moir's had the best seafood of the trip in a completely random spot.

Erin's Favorite Meals
1. Slightly North of Broad - Charleston, SC
2. Mert's Heart and Soul - Charlotte, NC
3. Paisley Cafe - Tallahassee, FL

I can't really comment on these since I am a meat eater, but it's a testament to Mert's that even vegetarians leave happy.

Best Hotels
1. Courtyard - Wilmington, NC
2. Parrot Key - Key West, FL
3. Courtyard - Atlantic City, NJ

Atlantic City and Parrot Key cost a lot more than most of the hotels we stayed in, but they were also of great quality.  The Wilmington Courtyard was the best of that brand anywhere I've ever been.  It was clearly new and everything was perfect.  The location, service, room quality, views, colors, and free Starbucks coffee combined to make it our best night.

Adam's Favorite Activities
1. Kennedy Space Center
2. Kutztown Folk Festival
3. Friday Night Jamboree

It was agonizingly difficult to narrow this down to a list of only three activities after doing hundreds of things this month.  In the end, the Jamboree in Floyd managed to stick out in my mind the entire trip.  The videos show why.  That type of music (and those who attend the shows) are dying out.  It was fun to share that moment in history.  We only saw the Amish festival because I saw a sign on the highway and made a random decision to visit.  I've been to many festivals, but never one like that.  The music, vendors, food, and setting are something you could only get in Dutch Country.

The Space Center is a more usual activity, but it can't be understood just how incredible this entire complex is.  This is one of the best designed attractions ever with a thorough mix of history and activities.  The exhibits, including Atlantis, cannot be recreated elsewhere.  When you add in meeting astronauts and going into a shuttle simulator, it takes it to the top.  It was $50, but NASA makes sure you get something for it.  This attraction isn't for everyone since you have to care about the space program, but if you do, this is a must visit from anywhere in the country.

Erin's Favorite Activities
1. Harry Potter World
2. Airboat Tour
3. Kutztown Folk Festival

I can't comment on Erin's, but it's not a surprise that Universal Studios ended up at the top.  It was meant to be the centerpiece of the trip and it sure lived up to expectations.  I thought it was pretty amazing, so for fans like Erin, I can only imagine the sense of wonder.

Phase Four Wrap-up

The final phase of our trip was the coastal one covering Tampa down to Key West and back home.  It was designed to be a beach vacation but weather and time combined to really limit Erin's time in the sun.

Here's our highlights and lowlights from the last section of the trip.

Best Meal - Mrs. Wilke's Boarding House - Savannah, GA (Erin votes for SNOB in Charleston.)
Best Activity - Airboat Tour - Florida City, FL
Best Hotel - Courtyard - Wilmington, NC
Biggest Surprise - Atlantic City Boardwalk/Casinos - Atlantic City, NJ
Best Drive - Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel from Suffolk, VA to Salisbury, MD
Best City - Atlantic City, NJ (Erin votes for Savannah, GA.)

Worst Meal - Grits Grill - Nags Head, NC (not counting free hotel breakfasts)
Worst Activity - Lost Colony - Roanoke Island, NC
Worst Hotel - Budget Inn - Salisbury, MD
Biggest Disappointment - Key West, FL
Worst Drive - Miami, FL to Ormond Beach, FL (Pouring rain, long day.)
Worst City - Daytona Beach, FL

The problem with Key West was the hype.  We should have known it couldn't be as exotic and interesting as we had made it out to be.  However, the inferior beaches and overwhelming amount of tourist influence made it worse.  Key West looks exciting on the map, but in reality you're better served in other parts of Florida.  It does have Duval Street, which is sort of like Bourbon Street in New Orleans, but that's not enough to justify the trip all the way out there.

The Lost Colony simply didn't exist.  I was interested to learn about it, but it turns out that no one really knows anything.  Read about it in a book and skip the actual visit.

Daytona Beach was just trashy.  I felt like it was NASCAR on the beach.  I have nothing against NASCAR, but the fans have a certain demeanor about them and that's what Daytona Beach was like.

The Everglades airboat tour is probably the only time I'll be just inches away from a wild alligator.  If you watch the video from that day, you'll understand the other reason the airboat tour was great.  It was like being in a video game with the speed and crazy turns.

I'll talk about Atlantic City in a post to come.

Day 29 - Atlantic City, NJ to NYC

For some reason, Erin really wanted to sleep in today.  The sun woke me up at 7:30am, but I pulled the blackout curtain and we stayed in bed until 10am.

By the time we were ready to go, it was 11:30am and we headed back to the Borgata because a buffet is required when in a casino town.  The Borgata buffet is supposed to be the best, but we missed the breakfast window.  Instead, we went for lunch.

Waiting in line for the buffet to open.

The eating area.  Ignore Erin trying to get in my photo.

The buffet area.
I didn't go too crazy with this one, getting small plates.

Slider, caesar salad, spanish potatoes, potato salad, and general tso's chicken.

Crab ravioli, pork taco, popcorn shrimp, chicken dumpling, potato chip.

Flank steak, meatball, salmon, mussels.
 OK, now for the part everyone cares about.

Chocolate cannoli, mini-cheesecake, strawberry eclair, apple pie!

White cake, coconut macaroon cookie, brownie, passion fruit sorbet!
At $20, I felt it was fair.  This buffet was nothing like the Bellagio or Cosmopolitan in Vegas, but those charge $50 per person.  Some of the items really tasted like buffet fare, but others were pretty good.  Someone else will have to be brave and try the $8 buffet at Trump.

After lunch it was time to drive north.  Erin was trying to navigate us home, but I decided vacation shouldn't end just yet, so I took us to the beach.

New York skyline in the distance!
Erin forgave me for the extra delay because she enjoyed the sun.  On the downside, the sand was really hot on the way in and it burned her feet.  It actually caused multiple blisters!  Not good.

On the way out of the beach, we found an old military fort.

A lighthouse

There were 50ish buildings just like this one.
Sandy Hook was a good stop, but it was finally time to go home for real.

Driving straight towards the WTC.  Almost there.

Home!
Our final vacation meal was a delivery pizza.

The last meal.

Our view while we ate the pizza.
Our view as I write this post.
Our day-by-day tracker has reached an end, but I have a few wrap-up posts still to come.

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Day 28 - Salisbury, MD to Atlantic City, NJ

Today started out with kangaroo for breakfast.  Salisbury isn't the greatest place for morning meals, so I snacked on my kangaroo jerky to make it to lunch.  We've eaten a lot of southern cuisine and seafood, so lunch today was cheap chinese.  It was mainly out of necessity since I needed something really fast before boarding the ferry.  Not great, but better than being hungry.  Erin had a donut from Dunkin' Donuts.

Much nicer Ferry Terminal in Delaware.

Waiting our turn.

Ferry coming in while we wait by the patio bar.

This ferry fits 70 cars!

Dolphins!  (Really hard to see their fins, sorry.)
This isn't the first time we saw dolphins.  I just didn't mention it on the Hatteras ferry.  Apparently dolphins love hanging out in Atlantic bays.

Erin with Lucy.

Me with Lucy.  (I got her good side!)
You can pay to go inside for a guided tour, but we decided to head on to Atlantic City instead.

At the intersection of Park Place and Boardwalk.  I have a monopoly on blue!

I found Baltic too, but it's a little scarier.  (Only purple, so it makes sense.)
View from the Courtyard.

Everyone is getting pushed in carts.  This is worse than pedi-cabs.

The beach.

Not as good as Ocean City, but a real boardwalk.
Themed-section.

Erin in the western area.

View from the Caesar's shops.
After walking the boardwalk, we had an early dinner at a famous submarine shop.

Old-time restaurant.

This was a half!  Who could eat a whole?
After dinner I wanted to see the Borgata, so we decided to walk.  I wouldn't recommend it.  It's a lot longer than I realized.

Everyone has been pretty negative about Atlantic City.  Everything I read talks about casinos closing, blight, and high crime.  We walked right through the public housing on the way to the Borgata and while it was not desirable, I felt perfectly safe during the day.  I think Atlantic City is still a nice weekend getaway for gamblers.  It's like Vegas mixed with a beach.

Some of the bad housing on our walk.

The Borgata and an empty lot.
We finally made it and found a fancy place.

Borgata Lobby.

Machine going crazy after I won $75 with a $1.25 bet.
The Borgata was the nicest casino we saw but Caesar's and the Tropicana are nice too.  The Trump Plazaq was probably the funniest one we saw.  It's closing soon, but there was a huge line for the buffet.  We weren't sure why until we saw an advertisement upstairs.

Well, that explains it.
I'm not even sure how they make money at a buffet with those prices.  I'm guessing they don't.  The idea is just to draw people into the building.  Apparently it doesn't work since the Plaza is closing.

What are crab fries?

The Quarter at the Tropicana.

Uh...no thanks.
Then we watched a 3D light show.

Very cool show for free on the boardwalk.

Then it was time for a late dinner since it had been six hours since eating the early one.

Buffalo chicken pizza.  A New York staple.

Strawberry funnel cake.  Erin's favorite fair dinner!
Night view.
Atlantic City was more fun than expected.  I expected urban blight with a decent boardwalk, but there are a few Vegas-quality casinos and plenty to see.  It's only a few hours from home, so I might have to make a return visit in the next few months.

Tomorrow we drive back to New York!

Monday, July 28, 2014

Day 27 - Suffolk, VA to Salisbury, MD

Trying to get from Suffolk to downtown Norfolk was maddening.  Every crossing was a cashless toll, which meant we couldn't use it.  We spent 90 minutes working our way around the city.  At least we got a good unintentional tour of the naval shipyard.  It turns out this is the capital of the US Navy.  It's weird to see so many naval ships at once just sailing around.

Not much else happened before going to Virginia Beach.

Erin specifically requested a vegetable sandwich, so we found one.

Taste was fine.
Afterwards we went to the beach.

Virginia Beach "Boardwalk".

Massive hotels all the way down.

Not sure what this is, but it looked regal and Virginian.
Overall, we were disappointed with Virginia Beach.  The area seemed nice enough as a beach, but there was really no retail to go along with it.  There were almost no restaurants and only a few shops selling cheap souvenirs.  Two blocks off the beach are normal-looking buildings and homes.

We left and headed to an engineering marvel.

Looking down at the first tunnel.

The restaurant built on the bridge.

Fancy blue ice cream from the restaurant.

Erin really wanted this odd picture for some reason.

Container ship coming through.

The road goes way off to the right.

View from the pier.
You can't really tell from pictures how amazing the drive is.  Look it up on Google Maps and you can see how much of a feat its construction was.  Water on both sides for miles.

We drove on the eastern Virginia shore which was uneventful.  The real highlight of the day was Ocean City.

A real boardwalk!

Erin tries famous Thrasher Fries.

No ketchup allowed.  Salt and vinegar only.

Quite the sand artist.

Even more sand sculptures.

Hard to see, but the workers had great costumes.
This was the boardwalk we had hoped to see in Virginia Beach.  It was packed with all sorts of people.

Famous popcorn.

People dressed up as characters.

Amusement park rides.

Haunted House ride.

A few interesting items for sale.  (Who buys this stuff?)

Fish caught here.  I would not want to catch this shark.
Erin wanted me to get her a prize, so I tried really hard to win a Coach purse.

Trying my best.
No luck.
Trying to win me a stuffed animal.

A very excited Erin.
View from the end of the boardwalk.

One of the side streets off the boardwalk.

Looking at the beach from the pier.

Pier panorama.

Major waves at this beach!

Making some fried Oreos for someone.

For Erin!
Erin had french fries and Oreos for dinner.

I had tuna.
Rather than drive into Delaware, we headed to Salisbury to our hotel.  Tonight is our most questionable hotel.  The Budget Inn in Salisbury has decent reviews, but it's an older motel and the cheapest one I have stayed in for many years.  The woman in front of me paid $32 (including tax) for her room.  Ocean City is very expensive, so this was as close as we could get.

Tomorrow we take the ferry to New Jersey and go to Atlantic City!